Genuine Leather vs PU Leather: What's the Difference?

Leather goods are sold under a lot of confusing labels: genuine leather, full grain, bonded, PU, faux, vegan. Some of these describe real animal hide and some do not. Knowing the difference helps you judge what you are paying for and how long it is likely to last.

What genuine leather means

Genuine leather is made from animal hide. Cowhide is the most common, but buffalo, sheep and goat leather are all widely used. In everyday use the phrase simply means the item is real leather rather than a plastic imitation.

In the trade, the same phrase is sometimes used for a lower grade made from the inner layers of the hide. That is why it helps to look for the grade as well as the word leather.

Full grain, top grain and bonded leather

• Full grain keeps the outer surface of the hide, including its natural grain and small marks. It is the strongest and longest lasting grade, and it develops a patina over time.
• Top grain has the very top layer sanded or corrected to give a more even finish. It is still real leather, but a little less tough.
• Bonded leather is made from leather scraps and fibres glued together onto a backing. It contains some leather but behaves more like a composite and tends to peel.

What PU leather is

PU stands for polyurethane. PU leather is a synthetic material: a plastic coating over a fabric base, embossed to look like leather. You will also see it called faux leather, synthetic leather or vegan leather.

It has real advantages. It is lighter, cheaper, easy to wipe clean, needs no conditioning and comes in very consistent colours and finishes. The trade-off is lifespan. PU does not breathe, does not age into a patina, and with heavy use it can crack or peel at folds and edges.

How to tell them apart

• Look at the surface. Real leather has an irregular grain with small variations. PU usually has a uniform pattern that repeats.
• Check the edges. Cut leather edges look fibrous, or are burnished and painted. PU edges often show a fabric backing or a neat plastic finish.
• Smell it. Real leather has a distinctive rich smell. PU smells faintly of plastic, or of nothing much.
• Read the label. Honest sellers state the material. If a listing avoids saying what something is made of, ask.

Which should you buy?

For things you handle every day and want to keep for years, such as a belt or a wallet, full grain leather is usually worth it. It copes with bending and wear far better than synthetics. For a bag where light weight, a structured shape and an easy-clean finish matter more, PU can be a sensible, affordable choice.

What we sell

Our men's leather belts and leather wallets are handmade from 100% genuine leather: full grain cowhide, full grain buffalo or sheep leather, as stated on each product. Our men's laptop messenger bag is made from PU leather, and we label it that way so there is no confusion.